I’m not altogether comfortable with restaurant reviewing yet. It’s not that I don’t eat out, or have anything to say when I do, it’s just that I haven’t made it part of my writing vocabulary. This is primarily because
A/ I am to skint to eat out. To be a food reviewer as far as I can make out you generally need money or at least a certain amount of disposable income. My money pays bills, school fees and all the overheads that having an expensive teenager entails. Eating out is generally way down the list these days.
B/ You need to live in London. There is such a poor choice of restaurants around North Wales. If I do eat out locally nine times out of ten I end up thinking that I could have cooked the food better myself. There are a couple of places that I do love, but of course like anywhere if you go there every week it simply becomes dull. Ye Olde Bulls Head in Beaumaris is my most frequent and favourite haunt, either with the kids in the Brasserie or at the rather posher loft restaurant. I don’t think I have ever complained there.
C/ You need to travel widely and have the time to visit all these wonderful foodie establishments. For reasons why I am unable to do this see A. Much as I’d like to write about food all day, visit foodie places and sample all these delights, I am not earning enough from writing/supper club/anywhere else to do so (all sponsors/offers of work /requests for catering gratefully received!!)
On top of this, being a chef has inevitably made me a picky diner. Having said this I have actually eaten in some really lovely places this year, Stevie Parle’s ‘Dock Kitchen’ being a particular highlight. Other gems include The Vine in Sevenoaks and San Carlo’s in Manchester but as yet I have failed to write about any of them!
I thought it was time I started!
Home, in Little Bollington near Lymm is a converted manor house, now revamped as an unpretentious, family friendly bar and restaurant. It’s what you’d expect from a place that welcomes kids, families and offers a simple bog standard children’s menu and small choice of maybe half a dozen starters and main courses. Over the past three years they have worked hard to prove themselves as high quality providers of fresh, local, home cooked food at amazingly reasonable prices. I visited with a large mixed group of adults (varying in age from 20 to 80) and one child after the wedding of two close friends. A small, understated but beautiful and emotional, ceremony followed by lunch and a few drinks. I have to say initially I was somewhat dubious at their ‘£6 credit crunch lunch’ deal, wondering how they could possibly offer two courses (which included choices of lobster and venison) at £6 a head, but of course as a guest of the bride and groom I wasn’t going to turn my nose up. I wasn’t the only chef at the table, so at least I had a co-conspirator with whom I could moan about the food if it was terrible.
I opted for risotto with pan-fried scallop and lobster, followed by venison with potatoes and seasonal vegetables.
The risotto was beautifully cooked, with plenty of intense flavour and looked lovely on the plate, but it only accompanied by one scallop, a poached egg (which I wasn’t expecting and which I gave to Sean) and a tiny serving of lobster. Everything tasted lovely and was perfectly cooked, but there just wasn’t enough of it for me. Obviously though this was a £6 for two courses lunch and with some trepidation I awaited my main course; I hoped it would be more substantial than the starter.
The main course was certainly bigger. There was nothing particularly artistic about the presentation, it was simple, hearty, unpretentious food. My main criticism? The venison was perhaps a little tough and the potatoes could have been crisper, but for £6 a head I wasn’t going to complain.
My dinner companions were also pleased with their choices opting for pork and venison comfit with chutney, pan-fried sea bass and steak and chips!
We all opted for dessert and coffee (and after downing a number of bottles of Prosecco, frankly we needed a hefty sugar and caffeine injection). I went for the cheesecake with ice cream, particularly because it stated it was ‘home-made’. I wanted to test out their home-made claim. My dinner companions opted for sticky toffee pudding (usually my favourite) and a sort of banoffee gateaux type thing. The cheesecake wasn’t particularly inspiring and was slightly overpowered by the vanilla in it, as was the custard served with the sticky toffee pudding. The pudding itself was very light, with lots of treacley bits on the top, but I have to say I prefer a slightly denser pudding with loads of dates packed into it. Sean’s banoffi gateaux was unfortunately not so good. It was heavy, rich and very sickly. To be honest I couldn’t actually tell that there was banana in it. The presentation was lovely and at a little over £3.00 should I really complain?
Our waiter was very attentive throughout the meal and with his over-the-top Italian accent and liberally scattered expressions of ‘bello Signora’ ….(much to our companions annoyance as she quietly muttered ‘it’s signorina actually’!) he had us in stitches. We were totally convinced that once he got back to the kitchen the accent would be dropped, as he returned to his true broad Mancunian.
All in all we shared a lovely lunch, with lovely people on a very wonderful day, and that’s what mattered.